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| Iraqw skirt collected by Elizabeth Porter 2017.139.1 |
I recently accessioned a beautiful beaded skirt from
Tanzania. The skirt was donated to the Museum back in 2015 by Elizabeth Porter.
Elizabeth lived in Karatu in the Arusha region of Tanzania in the 1990’s.
Having watched young girls wearing such skirts during an initiation ceremony an
Iraqw woman offered to make Elizabeth a skirt to buy. This is now one of two
Iraqw skirts in the Museum’s collections. The other skirt is older, acquired by
Samuel P. Powell when he was in Tanzania and loaned to the Pitt Rivers in 1940.
The earlier skirt is more richly decorated however, despite the initiation
rituals associated with the skirt being rarely practiced today the tradition of
making these skirts prevail and whilst the handmade nature of the skirts ensure
that no two skirts are the same similarities can be found. Prominent colours of
beading in both skirts are red, white and blue, though the colour palette has
expanded in the later skirt. This is most likely because seed beads of
different colours became more available. The skirts, given the skill and time
required to make them, anywhere between 6 months to a year during seclusion as
part of the Marmo ritual, were traditionally saved for special occasions and
ceremonial wear. Young girls took great pride in the making of their skirts and
the finished product displayed the individuals high level of skill and artistic
design, it also acted as a sign of wealth. Some skirts were so heavily beaded
that they could weigh up to 40 pounds or more.
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| Iraqw skirt collected by Samuel P. Powell 1940.7.0114 |
Iraqw skirts are rare in Museum collections and to have two
at the PRM is a real privilege. It is a great opportunity for comparison and
demonstrates the importance of contemporary collecting. The tradition of embroidering
hide skirts among the Iraqw has continued, whilst the original context for
making them has disappeared. The symbolic meanings behind the shapes and
patterns embroidered on the skirts are largely unknown however, they remain
important material culture for understanding Iraqw society.
Faye Belsey
Assistant Curator
